How to Edit a Wildlife Photo - for Beginners

As a wildlife photographer, I've found that getting great shots of animals in nature is just the beginning - most photos need careful adjustments to reach their full potential.

The key is finding the right balance in editing. Too many effects can erase the raw, genuine qualities that make wildlife photos compelling in the first place.

I'd like to share my step-by-step editing process that helps preserve authenticity while bringing out the best in each image. Let's walk through my actual workflow together, and I'll show you exactly how I approach each photo.

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Step 1: How I Crop My Wildlife Photos

Cropping has become one of my most valuable editing tools. It isn't just about trimming edges, it helps me tell clearer stories through my images.

It's like fine-tuning a photo until it shows exactly what I want people to see.

Finding and Fixing Visual Clutter

I've learned this lesson countless times when photographing birds - there's almost always something that sneaks into the frame!

My process starts with a careful look at the photo's edges. I check for anything that might catch the viewer's eye unnecessarily - whether it's bright spots, partial animals in frame, or small branches cutting through the scene.

Getting rid of these unwanted elements helps guide viewers straight to what matters most in the photo.

Below is a recent example - my shot of a European Robin.

You'll notice distracting elements like the bright bark on the left side and some out-of-focus branches behind the bird. Scroll down to see how cropping transformed this image.

robin before being croppedEuropean Robin before cropping the photo. The light coloured bark on the left distracts, as do the blurred branches in the background. Scroll down to see the cropped version.

Better Photo Composition

I use the rule of thirds as my go-to setup - splitting my viewfinder into nine boxes. Placing my main subject where these lines cross creates more interesting photos than centering everything. It's straightforward but effective.

For action shots of birds, I make sure to include extra room in front of their flight path. This small adjustment makes a big difference - it gives viewers a sense of where the bird is headed and adds movement to the shot.

Cutting off the space in front of a flying bird makes the photo feel frozen and unnatural. By giving the bird visual space to move into, the image feels more dynamic and real.

Aspect Ratios

Different photo shapes serve different purposes in my work.

Square frames highlight perfect symmetry - like catching a butterfly's matching wings in perfect balance. When I'm photographing deer moving across the rolling British hills, I switch to wider frames that show the full scene.

I've learned that changing the frame's dimensions can completely change how the photo speaks to viewers. So I test various crops until I find the one that best serves the subject.

Robin photo after croppingRemoving the distractions when cropping draws attention to the bird.

I Give My Photos Room to Breathe

I've learned an important lesson about cropping photos: less is often more. While it's tempting to zoom in tight on your subject, keeping some extra space around it usually creates better results.

When I frame wildlife shots now, I make sure to include some of the surrounding environment. This approach lets the photo feel more natural and gives viewers a better sense of the animal in its habitat.

The goal is to show nature as it really is - free and unrestricted.

Step 2: Getting the Light Just Right

After years of photographing wildlife, I've learned that proper exposure makes or breaks a photo - no matter if I'm shooting in bright sunlight or under a forest canopy.

Nothing's more disappointing than reviewing photos at home and realising they don't capture what I saw.

My photography journey started with a basic camera that only shot JPGs. Now with my current equipment, I shoot in RAW format, which gives me much more options to adjust my images afterward.

How I Use the Histogram to Guide My Editing

The histogram has become an essential tool in my exposure workflow.

Think of it as a simple graph showing how bright or dark different parts of your photo are. When the graph piles up on the left side, your image is underexposed. If it's stacked on the right, you've overexposed the shot.

I pay special attention to "clipping" - when you lose details in very bright or dark areas. When the histogram shows a smooth spread across the graph, it usually means I've captured all the important details, from dark shadows to bright highlights.

🛠️ Want to Try This Yourself?

I've written more about histograms here.

My Photo Recovery Tips

As a wildlife photographer, I've often wrestled with the challenges of shooting in bright midday conditions. Those intense overhead rays can create stark contrasts that mask the natural beauty of a scene.

But here's what I've discovered: don't be too quick to delete those seemingly imperfect shots. Today's photo editing software offers powerful tools to recover detail in overexposed areas, often bringing back subtle textures and colours you might have thought were lost forever.

The darker parts of your images can hold surprising treasures too. It's possible to gently lift these shadowy areas to reveal hidden details.

However, I've learned to be strategic with shadow adjustment. There's a sweet spot - push too hard, and you'll start to see unwanted grain creep into your image.

(I'll share more about dealing with noise in a moment.)

Through trial and error, I've found that subtle adjustments often yield the most natural-looking results. The goal isn't to eliminate all shadows, but rather to find the right balance that keeps your photo looking authentic while bringing out its best qualities.

Step 3: Working with Colour

The right colour treatment in wildlife photography makes all the difference - it guides viewers' attention and transforms good shots into memorable ones.

The goal? Rich, natural colours that enhance without looking artificial.

Here's how I adjust colours to make wildlife photos stand out while maintaining their authentic feel.

Getting White Balance Right

Early in my photography journey, I struggled with unwanted colour tints - my photos would look either too cool (blue) or too warm (orange).

I later discovered these issues stemmed from incorrect white balance settings. The fix is straightforward, especially when shooting RAW.

My preferred approach is simple: I use the eyedropper tool in my editing software.

By selecting a neutral-coloured spot in the image - like a grey stone or white plumage - the software can determine proper white balance. This single click helps adjust all colours accurately for that lighting situation.

Smart Use of Vibrance

The vibrance adjustment is my go-to tool for bringing life to subtle colours without overdoing it.

What makes vibrance special is its selective approach - it boosts less saturated colours while preserving already-vivid ones. This intelligent behavior helps maintain a natural look.

HSL: Getting the Colours Just Right

The HSL (hue, saturation, lightness) sliders are my go-to tools when I need precise control over specific colours in my photos.

These controls allow me to fine-tune each colour separately. When green foliage looks dull, I'll slightly increase its saturation. If the blue sky feels too strong, I can reduce its intensity. The key is making small, subtle adjustments.

Take a look at this sunrise photo below. It's completely unedited - those warm tones are exactly how nature painted them during that early morning light.

Dunnock taken during the golden hourDunnock photo captured at sunrise (unedited)

Sometimes photos benefit from a tiny boost to yellow or orange tones to enhance their natural glow (though this particular image was perfect as-is).

But here's a warning: pushing these adjustments too far creates artificial-looking results. Check out my intentionally overdone edit below - it shows exactly what happens when you get heavy-handed with the saturation controls.

Over saturated imageOverly saturated version - an example of excessive editing (created in Pixelmator Pro for Mac)

🛠️ Want to Try This Yourself?

Learn more about golden hour photography.

Step 4: Sharpening the Details

Sharpening is like a secret ingredient in wildlife photography - when done right, it can take your photos from good to outstanding.

The goal isn't to make everything super crisp. Instead, it's about highlighting those natural details that make your wildlife subject stand out.

Overall Image Sharpening

I start by adding a light touch of sharpening across the whole photo. This creates a good base and improves the overall clarity.

Every editing program has basic sharpening controls. I've learned to be gentle here - small adjustments often work best.

My aim is to enhance the natural textures - like the softness of a fox's fur or the detailed pattern of a lizard's scales.

Using Masks

Masks let me sharpen specific areas while leaving others alone. This means I can focus on my subject without affecting smoother areas like the background.

Look for masking options in your editing software. Adjust until the sharpening highlights exactly what you want to show.

Targeted Detail Work

Some parts of your photo might need extra attention - like precise feather patterns, delicate butterfly wing details, or fine animal whiskers.

This is where you can really make important features stand out. Take your time, zoom in close, and make small, careful adjustments where needed.

Watch Out for Over-Processing

It's tempting to keep pushing the sharpening to bring out more detail. But too much can create weird edges or make your photo look artificial.

My approach? Start small and build up gradually. Step back often to check your work. If your photo starts looking more like digital art than real life, pull back on the sharpening.

The goal is to improve what's already there, not create something that looks processed.

🛠️ Want to Try This Yourself?

How to sharpen a photo in Lightroom or Photoshop.

Step 5: Cleaning Up Wildlife Photos

Getting clear, sharp wildlife photos in dim conditions can be challenging. Here's how I handle unwanted digital noise in my images.

Fixing Grainy Textures

When I shoot in low light or use high ISO settings, photos often develop a grainy texture - what we call luminance noise.

The fix? I use the luminance noise reduction slider carefully. Small adjustments make a big difference. The key is finding the sweet spot where the graininess fades but the image stays sharp.

Removing Colour Spots

Ever notice random coloured dots in the darker parts of your photos? That's colour noise.

The colour noise reduction slider helps eliminate these spots. I move it gradually until the specks disappear, being careful not to wash out the natural colours in my image. It's like fine-tuning an instrument - too much adjustment ruins the harmony, too little leaves unwanted artifacts.

Targeted Clean-up

Wildlife photos often need different treatment in different areas. Think of a bird's feathers versus a blurred background.

This is where the brush tool becomes invaluable. I can smooth out distracting backgrounds while preserving every detail in my subject. I zoom in close and work methodically, making small, precise adjustments.

Balancing Sharpness and Smoothness

After reducing noise, photos might need some crispness restored. I think of it like focusing a pair of binoculars - you adjust back and forth until everything looks just right.

My process:

  1. Apply noise reduction first
  2. Follow with careful sharpening
  3. Check the details at different zoom levels

This combination helps create clean, professional-looking wildlife images while maintaining their natural appearance.

long-eared owlSeen at normal viewing distance this photo of a long-eared owl looks fine. But...
noisy-photo-close-upZoom in closer, and you'll notice graininess in both the background and softer areas.

Step 6: Perfecting Your Shot

Small adjustments during editing can transform a good wildlife photo into something special.

I've learned that targeted edits make the biggest impact on wildlife images.

Brightening Eyes

The eyes are crucial in any animal portrait - they deserve special attention. Using precise tools like brushes or radial gradients makes a real difference.

A slight increase in eye brightness creates natural-looking alertness in your subject.

Don't overdo it - you don't want your subject looking like it's just stepped out of a sci-fi film!

Adding a local adjustment to the owl's eyeI enhanced the owl's eyes using radial gradients for better contrast

Managing Backgrounds

When your subject blends too much with the background, try subtle darkening.

This technique helps your subject stand out while keeping the image looking natural. Remember: enhance what's there, don't overpower it (yes, I know I'm repeating myself again)!

Drawing Focus

I love using a gentle darkening around the edges of the frame to draw the viewer's eye subtly to the subject - that's what photographers call a vignette.

You can probably guess what I'm going to say next...

If I go too far, it can look as though my subject is at the end of a dark tunnel!

Bringing Out Details

For adding depth to wildlife photos, I use dodge and burn techniques.

These methods come from traditional photography - dodging lightens specific spots while burning darkens them.

This approach works particularly well for highlighting animal textures like fur, feathers, or scales, adding subtle but important dimension to your shots.

Taking it further

I'm creating comprehensive guides for each editing technique mentioned above, and I'll add direct links as new pages go live on the site. Each guide will walk you through the specific steps and strategies in detail.

You'll find recommendations for editing tools that fit every budget - including excellent no-cost options as well as professional-grade software like Adobe's suite of products.

Stay updated on new content by signing up for my newsletter below. You'll receive notifications whenever I publish new guides or make significant updates to existing ones.

Other people have asked...

Question: What is the best way to edit wildlife photos?

Answer:

  • Crop to highlight the subject
  • Adjust exposure using histograms
  • Enhance colours naturally with vibrance sliders
  • Use selective sharpening to bring out textures
  • Remove noise to clean up smooth areas

Question: RAW vs JPG which is best?

Answer:

If you’re serious about wildlife photography and want the freedom to tweak your images, RAW is the way to go. It’s like having a safety net for those “oops” moments in the field. But if you’re after quick results and don’t plan on heavy editing, JPEGs can be a convenient option.

Question: What’s the most common mistake beginners make when editing wildlife photos?


Answer: Overdoing it. It’s easy to get carried away with adjustments, but the best edits are subtle and enhance the natural beauty of the subject. Always aim for a balanced, authentic look.

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